this update is being precariously typed out on the road to Pucon. We have been driving for about two days now. As we drive further south, the landscape mimics that of southern oregon and northern california. The climate seems the same.. but reversed. Chile isnt a vacationers paradise. Theres no promise of exotic drinks beach front or that feeling of getting away from it all. Chile is America through the looking glass. Store fronts are road side stands offering; Queso - cheese. Beautiful white cheese that takes on regional flavors, Frutilla stands - strawberries or melons in the regions we have been, or a variety of stands that offer empenadas or hotdogs... sandwiches are big in Chile. I have given up my staple diet of road food fair. Yes there is plenty of fresh fruit and avocados - palta - but hipster vegetarians be warned, quinoa and hemp hearts do not exist here- although I did have a lovely plate of palm hearts.
Ensaladas have no dressings, flavors are derived from ingrediants. My Caesar salads only flavor came from the parmigiano cheese. I know this sounds like a lot of trite petty bitching. But if food and beach side partying are your thing, then you would be best to stay out of Chile. Chile has its appeal though. If your wishes are to travel and get out of a consumer driven society, this might be your escape. Old world charm.. with wifi. How long this Chile survives is anyones guess.
I had something of a breakdown yesterday after our night of camping outside of pilamachou. After the overload of Valpairaiso and the quick stop into Vina del mar, we headed sout to another stop on Andys bike trip. An oceanfront community, clean, thriving and highly dependant on the seasonal surfers, it was fairly quiet and probably would have been lovely to spend the day at if i had not been just done with life in general. Partly my fault for coming to this country with a huge langauge barrier as well as coming here with my western ideals in place and trying to be the patron saint of dogs, a small dog at the campsite was my breaking point. Somewhere about 700 kms back theres a Chilean campground owner telling peple about the crazed Canadian woman who started crying over a dog.
We just left the town of Mulchen.. a pretty dreary little town that we ducked into after passing by the flaming leftovers of the campground we had thought to camp at. Mulchen is very much the standard of latin amerian towns. Affordable housing with a town center, mercados for your basics on every corner. Restaurants from someones home, advertising pretty much the same damn thing three houses down and two stores over. Variety is definitely not the spice of life here. Just the basics, buttloads of mayo and avocado whipped up like mayo. Sandwiches, hotdogs and pan (bread).
Having just seen my life flash before my eyes as a lumber truck swerved into our lane, I think I will take a break from typing and continue my mantra of, "I will not die in a geo metro".
A couple hundred miles later.... the polar opposite of everything I have just written. We are at the base (BASICALLY) of Volcan de la Rica. We have driven thru Villa Rica and are now in Poucan and if this isnt where the rich Chileans go to play, then I give up. Aside from the steaming Volcano - not far enough away - there is a huge lake surrounded by volcanic sand. Every water sport imaginable is apparently available and theres a beach club feel. Venders and umbrella people vie for your money. Its not obnoxious yet. This is the outdoors-persons playground. Rafting, parasailing, climbing and god knows what else is readily available. This is resort Chile and I would be lying if I said I didn't like it. We are staying at the cutest campground just outside of the central town and a couple blocks off the beach. I think we are both hopeful for a meal thats something MORE. We stayed at the beach a little longer than we ought to. The redhead didnt burn but I'm all sorts of crispy around the edges. Damn broken Indian.
We are now 8 days into the trip and have just bought an audio cord so that we can listen to our music in the car. You know you have a good marriage when your partner doesn't unbuckle and kick you while you are sleeping/snoring after they have driven the entire day with no music and no conversation. Either that or he was just waiting to get closer to the volcano.
Disclaimer... its not a Geo Metro. It's a Chevy Spark.
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