Our 15 days in Chile (Andy's Title) How to survive two weeks with your spouse in Chile - a road journal. (Carolyn's Title)
Wednesday, 14 January 2015
Tuesday, last full day in Chile.
Monday, 12 January 2015
North American's perception of the Southern Continent
Sunday January 11
Sunday, 11 January 2015
Back to the cities
It's been an adventure to say the least. One that has been completely worth it simply for the experience. Here we are inside an unassuming building that holds a stately type of courtyard with pool. The rooms are large and comfortable and the coffee is excellent. Hotel Comerico is a lovely find in Curico. The days are starting to blend together and I am feeling the anxiety to get home but I have seen so much in the way of unconventional beauty. I am just thankful for this time. As a mom, I wish my kids would have wanted to spend this time with us. But it is what it ... I hope they have their own experiences one day.
We have decided to return to Santiago a day early. The little Spark is sounding like it needs a tuneup and honestly I think we are both just tired of the endless road.
Heres what I have learned about Chile. The people here are warm and quick to laugh. They have their own time that makes my Indian and island time look like a joke. I can guarantee that thi will cause the most anxiety for someone thats used to time watching. Just sit. Noones going anywhere until they absolutely have to. And even then, it might take another half hour. Time stopped somewhere at the airport.. just get used to it. I am actully thankful that I forgot my watch, otherwise this would have plagued me the entire trip.
I appreciate that the western mentality of 'more is more' is mostly lacking here. Yes they have their1%. But for the most part people are just happy to live.
Things that sadden me. The dogs of course, so many unspayed, unneutered. Its not just that they end up being left to the wayside, its the effect their mass numbers have on the indigenous faunae. Chile has an array of animals that are all on the list of being in danger of extinction.
Another huge disappointment is the foothold companies like coke and nestle have established. My fear is that it wont be long before Walmart and other giants rear their heads instead of hiding under othr company names. In the wrong hands Chile has the potential to morph into Mexico with its refuse and extreme levels of class division.
Billboards and advertising. Each one is a shrine to Western ideals of beauty. I could go on about this one but I won't.
There's a serious shortage of llamas, does Peru have the franchise rights on these suckers? I have seen one and he was the watch llama for a bunch of hillcleaning goats.
Warm milk... never gonna get used to that and my stomach cant handle any more bland food.
What I have loved about Chile. The family unit is strong. There are no roles seemingly in place. Both parents are caregivers and children take care of each other. The elderly are with their families and each town feels like a larger variation of family. Culture is strong and alive.
There are limited bugs! I have seen one spider the entire time we have been here. That doesnt mean they arent here, they just get their food elsewhere. I have been bit once. No idea what by, just that it caused a alot of misery until my allergy pill kicked in.
No lizards... this actually confuses me, I was expecting something lizard like.. nada.
Fresh avocados..every store.. everywhere.
How clean it is.. even for a depressed society. They still continue to clean their towns, pick up the refuse and deal with it. Ignore the grafitti, these are social statements and signs of awakening minds. White washing the walls doesnt making a place better.
The art, the graffiti and pure beauty of what the Chilean people do with what they have. It doesnt feel like anyone is doing without. The waiters will feed the homeless, human or animals.
In Ancun we walked by a tribute to six fallen firefighters. The town included plaques labelled in braille. This inclusivity is every where in Chile.
Old is good.. old is beginings. You get the respect that people have for everything old. From their elders to the forests that they regulary reseed. They understand the need to keep the old in order to continue the new.
Eco awareness... Im pretty sure they get that they are the guardians of their food, their flora and faunae. Chiloe was a wonderful example of ecotourism and how they are 9reserving not just the animals breeding grounds but their on livelyhood.
Anyways... I am pretty sure this is longwinded enough.
Next time I will just post pictures.
Saturday, January 10
Saturday, 10 January 2015
Dias de Pinguinos
Thursday, 8 January 2015
Thursday - onward south we go
Chile is not your latin america
this update is being precariously typed out on the road to Pucon. We have been driving for about two days now. As we drive further south, the landscape mimics that of southern oregon and northern california. The climate seems the same.. but reversed. Chile isnt a vacationers paradise. Theres no promise of exotic drinks beach front or that feeling of getting away from it all. Chile is America through the looking glass. Store fronts are road side stands offering; Queso - cheese. Beautiful white cheese that takes on regional flavors, Frutilla stands - strawberries or melons in the regions we have been, or a variety of stands that offer empenadas or hotdogs... sandwiches are big in Chile. I have given up my staple diet of road food fair. Yes there is plenty of fresh fruit and avocados - palta - but hipster vegetarians be warned, quinoa and hemp hearts do not exist here- although I did have a lovely plate of palm hearts.
Ensaladas have no dressings, flavors are derived from ingrediants. My Caesar salads only flavor came from the parmigiano cheese. I know this sounds like a lot of trite petty bitching. But if food and beach side partying are your thing, then you would be best to stay out of Chile. Chile has its appeal though. If your wishes are to travel and get out of a consumer driven society, this might be your escape. Old world charm.. with wifi. How long this Chile survives is anyones guess.
I had something of a breakdown yesterday after our night of camping outside of pilamachou. After the overload of Valpairaiso and the quick stop into Vina del mar, we headed sout to another stop on Andys bike trip. An oceanfront community, clean, thriving and highly dependant on the seasonal surfers, it was fairly quiet and probably would have been lovely to spend the day at if i had not been just done with life in general. Partly my fault for coming to this country with a huge langauge barrier as well as coming here with my western ideals in place and trying to be the patron saint of dogs, a small dog at the campsite was my breaking point. Somewhere about 700 kms back theres a Chilean campground owner telling peple about the crazed Canadian woman who started crying over a dog.
We just left the town of Mulchen.. a pretty dreary little town that we ducked into after passing by the flaming leftovers of the campground we had thought to camp at. Mulchen is very much the standard of latin amerian towns. Affordable housing with a town center, mercados for your basics on every corner. Restaurants from someones home, advertising pretty much the same damn thing three houses down and two stores over. Variety is definitely not the spice of life here. Just the basics, buttloads of mayo and avocado whipped up like mayo. Sandwiches, hotdogs and pan (bread).
Having just seen my life flash before my eyes as a lumber truck swerved into our lane, I think I will take a break from typing and continue my mantra of, "I will not die in a geo metro".
A couple hundred miles later.... the polar opposite of everything I have just written. We are at the base (BASICALLY) of Volcan de la Rica. We have driven thru Villa Rica and are now in Poucan and if this isnt where the rich Chileans go to play, then I give up. Aside from the steaming Volcano - not far enough away - there is a huge lake surrounded by volcanic sand. Every water sport imaginable is apparently available and theres a beach club feel. Venders and umbrella people vie for your money. Its not obnoxious yet. This is the outdoors-persons playground. Rafting, parasailing, climbing and god knows what else is readily available. This is resort Chile and I would be lying if I said I didn't like it. We are staying at the cutest campground just outside of the central town and a couple blocks off the beach. I think we are both hopeful for a meal thats something MORE. We stayed at the beach a little longer than we ought to. The redhead didnt burn but I'm all sorts of crispy around the edges. Damn broken Indian.
We are now 8 days into the trip and have just bought an audio cord so that we can listen to our music in the car. You know you have a good marriage when your partner doesn't unbuckle and kick you while you are sleeping/snoring after they have driven the entire day with no music and no conversation. Either that or he was just waiting to get closer to the volcano.
Disclaimer... its not a Geo Metro. It's a Chevy Spark.